In Chicago, a Reclaimed Swedish Heritage for a New Bakery


And so he christened his bakery Lost Larson and set off along with his sister Bree, who runs the entrance of the home, to Sweden the place they visited three to 4 bakeries a day searching for inspiration for the recipes he’d develop for hearty loaves of limpa, candy, yeasty cardamom buns, and sure, even a homage to the Swedish princess cake.

I visited on a damp and dreary afternoon, and once I ducked out of the descending grey mist into the brilliant and tidy cafe, an fragrant cloud of sugar, cardamom, vanilla and bread instantly surrounded. Every gleaming white marble cafe desk was crammed with patrons chatting over small plates of attractive meals and mugs of sizzling espresso — save for a single desk within the nook. My husband and son slid onto a mint-hued banquette that spans half the size of the store whereas I perched on a modern, however snug, Danish trendy chair. Not a single laptop computer was open. No one stared into a telephone. No one was even capturing smartphone photos of the in any other case Instagram-worthy pastry case. It was as everybody had pledged to honor the spirit of “fika,” the Swedish espresso break.

Taking word, I left my telephone in my bag as I helped my Four-year-old pull aside his flaky ham and cheese croissant. My husband and I shared two intriguing open-faced sandwiches: ’nudja and gianduja with spreadable spicy sausage, chocolate hazelnut unfold, creamy ricotta, pumpkin seeds and two poached eggs; and pickled herring with salty, preserved fish, a brilliant lingonberry jam and paper skinny slices of radish and white onion.

So enamored was I with the limpa on which the herring sandwich was made that I took dwelling a whole loaf. “Limpa” interprets from Swedish merely into “loaf,” however normally refers to some form of rye bread. Mr. Schaffer’s model is fragrant, baked with uplifting orange peel, fennel and anise. At $eight a loaf, it’s a luxurious merchandise — and satisfying: I slathered thick slices with salted butter for three days thereafter. The miniature duchess cake (Mr. Schaffer’s tackle the princess cake), nevertheless, with its tender vanilla sponge, jewel-toned raspberry gelée and a dreamy white chocolate marzipan mousse, disappeared posthaste.

Lost Larson, 5318 N. Clark St., Chicago (773) 944-0587; a meal for two is about $20, not together with espresso or tip.

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