How Do You Dress a Russian Doll?


What would you put on when you might attend your personal funeral?

Don’t ask Nadia, the tart protagonist of the Netflix sequence “Russian Doll,” who dies and comes again to life in every of the eight episodes, by no means surviving fairly lengthy sufficient to significantly ponder the query.

Chances are Nadia would deck herself out in some variation of her rock ’n’ roll tomboy look, the raffish composite of tweed boy coat, black blazer, tie shirt and thin denims she wears to her job day by day. It’s an all-purpose getup, accessorized with steel-rimmed shades, an unruly mop of cherry-tone hair and an ever-present cigarette.

Her look is not any style assertion, fact be informed. But then once more, “Russian Doll” doesn’t purport to be about style, a level of little concern to the viewers trying to buy the present’s wardrobe on-line.

Those watching attentively know that Nadia makes solely minor wardrobe changes for her 36th birthday bash, given by her aggressively trendy pal Maxine (Greta Lee). As performed by Natasha Lyonne, who wrote the sequence with Amy Poehler and Leslye Headland, Nadia is a creature of behavior, not a lot given to tweaking her practical day-to-day look.

Still, her decisions aren’t predictable. The sequence, an eerie hybrid of “Sliding Doors” and “Groundhog Day” that flirts with the notion of alternate universes, casts Nadia as a software program developer who adroitly dodges each Silicon Valley sartorial cliché.

“We wanted her to step away from the culture of ‘Mr. Robot,’ the idea that every developer wears a hoodie,” stated Jenn Rogien, the present’s resourceful costume designer, who has additionally dressed the solid of “Girls” and “Orange Is the New Black.”

“We needed these characters to feel cool and interesting,” Ms. Rogien stated. “But we also needed them to feel like real people trapped in a very strange circumstance.”

To that finish she ditched stereotypes in favor of individualized costumes meant to signify the total spectrum of Lower East Siders, the mash-up of artists, musicians and outliers who as soon as lent the neighborhood its extra of shade and the formidable newbies who come to buy, dine, occasion and pose.

“It’s important to me that these people don’t read as caricatures, that their clothes aren’t costumes,” Ms. Rogien stated. Paraphrasing Diane Arbus, she said her credo: “The more specific you can be in telling the story, the more realistic it is, and the more universal it becomes.”

She utilized that precept to the solid, outfitting many of the characters somberly, their costumes rendered mainly in tones of black, grey and sludge. That intentionally muted aesthetic was meant to underscore the present’s darkly comedian and unsettling themes. “It reflects a world that is a little off-tilt,” she stated.

All tones of blue and inexperienced have been struck from the manufacturing, Ms. Rogien stated. “Blue in particular connotes a calm and tranquillity that is not present in ‘Russian Doll.’”

There are putting departures, nonetheless, underscored by the lighting in addition to the garments. Tompkins Square Park, the place swaths of the motion happen, is shot in a wealthy, amber gentle. Nadia, if she continues to be kicking on the morning after her occasion, wears a scarlet shirt to work. The occasional intrusion of shade, Ms. Rogien defined, “projects the sense of a strange warmth in a very cold world.”

Nadia’s pal Maxine additionally breaks kind. Tending the bar and mingling with visitors, she is worldly in a shimmering sea-foam inexperienced high, silvery chain vest and layers of jewels. Her character, as Ms. Rogien irreverently posted on her Instagram feed, is “a mixed media fashion collage with a side of chicken.”

Alan (Charlie Barnett), who shares Nadias’s penchant for dying repeatedly, is extra self-effacing than Nadia. His nondescript button-down shirt, Shetland wool sweater and windbreaker is a fairly convincing preppy disguise.

He is all however invisible alongside self-styled mavericks like Lizzy (Rebecca Henderson), an artwork handler keen on classic fight boots and carpenter’s overalls that match her thatch of white-blond hair.

Ruth (Elizabeth Ashley), a therapist and Nadia’s surrogate mother, has a desire for wide-leg trousers, wedge ankle boots and stacks of fancy heirloom rings. She is “always professional, always on point — saves the drama for the clothes,” Ms. Rogien posted on Instagram.

Like a lot of New Yorkers, Ruth is a fan of a high-low combine. In one occasion, she wears a tangy cocktail of Marni, Zara, Rachel Roy and Ugg. Many New Yorkers can relate: It’s a combine that’s accessible and, to guage from Ms. Rogien’s feed, extremely covetable.

“I was surprised by how many DMs came with questions about where things were from,” Ms. Rogien stated. “I didn’t expect that.”

Emily Winokur, a private shopper and costume designer, needed to know, “What brand is the red blouse? (It is H&M.) Magda Magdalena Jakubik, a photographer, had a single urgent question: “Bra?”

Alas, Ms. Rogien and her group tracked down the garments and equipment almost a yr in the past when the sequence was in manufacturing from sources that included Forever 21, Dries Van Noten, Banana Republic and Levi’s.

No sense, then, scouring her Insta for fabulous finds. Not that it issues. “My great hope,” she stated, “is that these posts are inspiring people to be more adventurous in their own lives.”



Source link Nytimes.com

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